Moving Chicks to the Coop

Sharing is caring!

By now, you are ready to get those teenage chicks out of your house or garage. They are becoming increasingly messy. They probably need more space to roam around. You are ready to begin the process of moving chicks to the coop. But are the chicks ready? Here are a couple of things to keep in mind before you evict them from their brooder box and move them into the coop.

moving chicks to the coop
Don’t move baby chicks to the coop until you read this!

(Please note that some of the links in this article may be affiliate links and I may receive a small commission if you purchase something through a link. It will not change your cost. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. For more information, check out my disclosures page.)

Are Your Baby Chicks Fully Feathered?

baby chicks
Baby chicks enjoying the outdoors.
fully feathered chick
A “fully feathered” pullet sometimes called a “teenage chicken” -This one is ready to handle the outdoors.

First off, your baby chicks need to be fully feathered out before moving them to the coop. This means they need to have lost all of their baby fuzz and have full-fledged chicken feathers. This usually occurs between 5 & 12 weeks of age.

Some breeds take longer to feather out than others. The chicks in the picture on the left are NOT ready to make the move outdoors yet. They can be put outside for a bit during warm days as long as they are watched closely. The chick on the right is fully feathered and should be fine in the coop with no heat lamp or brooder light.

Another key consideration is the type of brooder lamp you used. The type will affect how soon your baby chicks feather out. Chicks kept under a heat lamp will take longer to feather out than chicks raised under an Eco-Glo brooder.

Under a heat lamp, chicks are exposed to constant heat so they don’t feather out as quickly. Under a radiant brooder (like the Eco-Glo), the chicks will come out to eat and drink but then run back under the brooder when they are chilly. This is similar to what they do with a mama hen. Since they are exposed to a range of temperatures, they are better able to handle the outdoor temperature fluctuations.

Outdoor Temperatures

Baby chick not fully feathered
Baby chick not fully feathered. This chick is not ready to be moved to the coop.

Secondly, it needs to be at least 55 degrees outside, day and night before you move chicks outdoors. If raised under a heat lamp, it should probably be closer to 60 or even 70 degrees both day and night or until the chickens are 8-10 weeks old and fully feathered. You don’t want to take a chance of a chick getting chilled. This can lower their immune system and cause them to become sick.

Our current batch of baby chicks are being raised in an unheated garage. At three weeks old, they don’t sleep under their Eco-Glo much anymore, but it is still there should we have a chilly night. In the picture above, you can see that the chick still has lots of fuzz on her head. She is not ready to be moved outdoors yet.

A Secure Coop

Before you even consider moving chicks to the coop, you need to have a secure shelter for them. Without a safe place to sleep, you could easily lose all your chicks to predators in one evening.

If you have older chickens already in this coop, then you need to wait until the baby chicks are about the same size as the older chickens before moving them in together. Older chickens will often peck or even kill younger chicks. This is why we have two coops – one we use to “grow out” younger chicks and a permanent coop to house all the egg layers.

For more information on combining two flocks of chickens read How To Integrate 2 Flocks of Chickens.

Once you have moved your chicks to the coop, you need to keep them locked in for about a week. This allows them time to get used to where “home” is. Once they are familiar with the coop, you can allow them into the run during the day and they should go back into the coop every night.

chickens free ranging in the yard
Chickens enjoying some sunshine in the yard.

After a week or so, you can decide whether or not you are comfortable letting them free-range. We do not let ours “free-range” as we have too many predators. Foxes, raccoons, coyotes, and possums are regular visitors to our yard. And we see hawks almost daily. We also have the occasional stray dog that could decimate our flock quite quickly.

However, so the chickens can access fresh grass and bugs, we have a semi-secure enclosure that we move around as needed to allow the chickens room to roam. We never allow them outside in this enclosure unless someone is home. In the evening the chickens naturally go back into their coop to roost for the night.

Do you let your chickens free range? When do you typically move them to their coop?

More Information On Raising Baby Chicks

Need more info on raising chickens? Check out the following posts.

Setting up a Brooder for Baby Chicks– I even tell you how to set your brooder up using a cardboard box.

Baby Chick Care-This post gives you the information you need to successfully raise your baby chicks.

What do you really need when building a chicken coop? – This post shares the things you NEED for your coop and gives some inexpensive ways to re-purpose items you may already have around the house.

baby chicks not ready to be moved outdoors
Before moving your chicks to the coop, they should be fully feathered. Learn how to tell when it’s safe to move baby chicks outdoors.

Sharing is caring!

8 thoughts on “Moving Chicks to the Coop”

  1. Hi. I just started raising chickens this spring. We have some dogwoods in the yard and our chicks keep jumping up to pull and eat the leaves. Do you know if it is safe for them to eat?

    • The dogwoods leaves are most likely not harmful to your chickens. As long as the chickens are fed a balanced diet, they typically will leave the harmful plants alone. I have read that azaleas are toxic to chickens, but we have quite a few and they have never bothered them. I hope you enjoy raising chickens. The fresh eggs can’t be beat!

  2. I’m adding 3 hens to my flock of 4, and my only concern is my rooster (he’s a terror) not sure why I keep him…he’s 4x the size of the hens and he is beautiful, my g-kids can’t go near the coop, and he terrifies my wife.(I do love to hear him crow) We have RI Reds.

    • I would definitely keep a close eye on everyone the first few days. If he gets too aggressive, you may have to remove him for a week or so until he calms down. And even then, I would re-introduce him slowly.

  3. I just split the chicken coop and yard with chicken wire. The birds can see each other and the young learn by watching the old. After a few weeks you can take down the fence division and they will accept each other. Good luck, farmer nana

  4. I have seven 4-week old chicks and four adult chickens. The four adults have their own, much larger coop, and I built a small A-frame coup with 10 sq feet of a sheltered enclosure and 45 sq feet of fully-enclosed “run” space. When it is time to move the babies with with the adults, I was wondering how I would teach the babies to return to their new coop without affecting the daily routine of the four birds already living there? In addition, by the time my babies are adults it will be during the sweltering heat of the summer and I don’t want to lock them in the coop for any amount of time due to extreme heat. Do you have any advice on this?

    • Wow. That’s a tough question to answer. Once you move everyone together, keep a close eye on the chickens and be prepared for some fighting among them as they sort out their pecking order. If the fully enclosed run is predator proof, I wouldn’t worry if they don’t go into the coop at first. After a week or two, they will usually follow the older chickens into the coop. If the run isn’t fully predator proof, you will probably have to catch the new ones at dusk and place them in the coop yourself.


Leave a Comment

Get your free Homemade Christmas Gifts Planner!
Yes, please!